“Lorde is one of these hyphenate beings. The cadence of her voice often recalls rap even when she’s unsure of her relationship to it. A self-proclaimed feminist, she’s also a girl having fun with fashion and the game of public image, like a musical version of the similarly gutsy Rookie magazine editor, Tavi Gevinson . That’s Lorde’s world, too: the feminist blogosphere that is the next-generational flowering of the 1990s riot grrrl and Third Wave movements, more international now, and aware of difference, if not always diverse.”
ugh with a side of ugh anytime anyone juxtaposes “feminist” with things like “but she likes men / fashion / makeup / shaving her legs.” also ugh any time someone holds up tavi gevinson as exemplary millennial feminism
Being a female rap fan is generally joyous and good. I really mean that, because rap is the best kind of music, and listening to the kind of music that you find best is fun and uplifting regardless of your gender. Sure, rap will occasionally blindside its female listeners with a particularly ugly line or cringeworthy video, but generally the sexism in rap remains at a consistent and manageable level; a fact you’ll no doubt have made peace with if you like to enjoy rap while female—of course rap is frequently sexist: all of pop culture is frequently sexist, because sexism permeates our entire society. No, the cloud on the horizon for female rap fans isn’t a rap-shaped one, it’s a dude-shaped one; and one type in particular: dudes who like to explain to women how sexist rap is.
Dudes who like to explain to women how sexist rap is (we’ll term them “Explainers”) are well-meaning white knights who have a passing familiarity with rap music and an urge to ensure that female fans are made aware that the genre is “misogynistic” (a once-powerful buzzword that used to denote hatred of women, but which increasingly means nothing more than “a thing I, a man, find sexist on some level, from a safe distance”). Explainers often identify as “feminist men,” although sometimes they’re just the type of man who likes to stringently test (feminist) women. It’s a dead giveaway that you’re dealing with an Explainer if he opens with the following lines: “How can you listen to that stuff? It’s so misogynistic” or “How can you claim to be a feminist when you love rap so much?” or “”HELLO, I AM A MAN, AND I’M HERE TO SAVE YOU FROM THE MUSIC YOU LIKE.” Explainers are motivated by a belief that rap “gets away with” being sexist; they’re selfless protectors of womenfolk who simply can’t stomach the internalised misogyny of a woman jamming Cam’ron.
"Panoramic (autumn/winter 1998) was one of Chalayan’s most dramatic fashion collections. The collection culminated in the idea of infinity, which was expressed in a surreal cityscape of geometric shapes and distorted images. Chalayan created an environment that eradicated perimeters and built environments and blurred cultural boundaries, camouflaging the body by merging it into the surroundings or multiplying its image in mirrors placed at intersecting angles. The models were distorted into generic shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the tops of their heads, while their faces and bodies were swathed in black to obscure their identities. The purpose behind these dramatic silhouettes was to create a non-distinct cultural/ethnic identity. As Chalayan explored the idea of representing the nature in the collection, he broke it down into its most basic graphic representation - pixels. Body and clothing were then merged into digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels carried by a column of models clad in sombre bodysuits as they processed slowly down the catwalk. The overall effect was that of experiencing spatial geometry created by bodies and cloth, interchanging the basis of fashion’s relationship to the body and its surroundings.”
What were your first impressions of it [the cover art]? Chris Norris: Envy, jealousy, and that I should I start thinking about retiring from designing album art. Actually, that I should go ahead and stop making any and all art forever. But also I got (and am still) very excited seeing Ginn destroy a “brilliant” musical and artistic legacy with a small colorful square. One of the best things to witness is a healthy fall from (some publicly perceived) grace, predetermined or not so predetermined. The most boring thing is when fans are precious or caring about a piece of art/music/movies/recipe/etc., shaming a creator when that creator wants to take whatever it is off the rails via personal choice and/or bad decision making and/or some vanguard art move. If some maniac has the real deal license to ruin their private or public history, fantastic. This is the current Grave New World (or The Misfits reunion of the 90/00’s if that Discharge reference is lost on you) and I love every moment of it, sincerely, without malice.
If I had to describe the difference between punk and goth, I would do it with a metaphor because I am limited as a writer: You’re at a party. Punk rock has you cornered in the kitchen and is telling you some really important stuff about politics. You wish you were talking to goth, the one wearing the cool scarves and makeup dancing in the other room.